Tempting kebabs, fragrant biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has long been a haven for gastronomes, with locals and tourists equally praising its exquisite cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Last month, UNESCO honored it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – adding it to a select group of international urban centers and sparking hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this designation, it becomes part of a international community of more than four hundred cities across over 100 countries committed to promoting "artistic expression as a catalyst of sustainable urban development".
The recognition "stands as proof of its profound culinary traditions and lively food ecosystem," as noted by a official from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to earn a spot in this coveted list of seventy urban centers around the world.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The honor for this venerable city comes as no surprise to its inhabitants or passionate food lovers. Many agree with the view that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO accolade, this beloved, bustling, and vibrant city – the administrative center of India's most populous state – is at last in the spotlight for what has always characterized its essence: an unparalleled passion for food.
"'What will be cooked, how should it be prepared' is a continued conversation from waking up until night in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are often judged by the standard of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of the Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th-century affluent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its tender kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were created, refined, and taken to exquisite levels in their opulent kitchens.
These royal kitchens were epicenters of gastronomic creativity, fusing Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were created. The story goes that the galouti kebab was created to feed an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His culinary artists minced the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, slow heat, with the pot's lid securely closed with a flour paste.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Besides the famous kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also developed a vast array of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a vegetarian's paradise.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only showcases local ingredients but also provides the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Virtually on countless corners, there are little shops and carts – lesser-known treasures that are wildly popular with the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, throngs of people start milling around from the crack of dawn at a renowned tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, presented in kulhads, along with incredibly soft buns covered in freshly churned white butter.
To start the day, one can head to a no-frills joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still in great demand for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also presents special treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert savored in the winter. The method of making it is precise and complicated. The artisan whisks the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its amazing frothy texture.
On cold mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many but express concern that their younger generation are reluctant to master the skill.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's immense food legacy puts it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, however, will be realized only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – crafted by generational food businesses, from modest street carts to lively restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is believed, will encourage more people globally to explore these tales and experience the city to delight in the food wonders of Lucknow.