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When assembling a ranking of London’s finest restaurants, one might anticipate familiar award-winning establishments. However, tucked near the top among these culinary giants is a modest salonu situated in a outlying part of north London.

A Surprise Recognition

This compact Turkish eatery, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the 4th finest restaurant in the capital by a prominent gastronomic guide. This honour has left the owners utterly astonished.

“I’m totally surprised,” remarks the owner’s son, alluding to his parents’ relentless work that culminated in their small place earning such a high ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

A Character of Simplicity

This compact space, which was a basic cafe before its change into a sought-after destination, has retained much of its earlier charm. It accommodates just over 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking display, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It is a small and stocky spot,” says the owner.

A Signature Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all down to the fare, and this restaurant definitely excels. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a tender consistency.

The meat is then added into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. Once the savoury mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is wrapped securely inside.

It is usually eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a powerful burst of taste, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A respected food critic called this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For sweets, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is coated in less syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a more intense, more aromatic and more balanced profile.

Surpassing the Titans

Notably, this unassuming spot has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place stuffed for under £25, equivalent experiences at top-tier establishments can cost significantly more than that price.

A Creed of Hospitality

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an expensive city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I do not subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The philosophy is shared by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he were in a role of power, he would “require to have every chef in London come to this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the traps of overthinking, and to show what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Journey of Perseverance

Unlike many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food did not train at elite establishments. “I am very happy of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this one first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum was extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a life outside work but her friends would support her to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. All of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

A Accomplishment for the Community

The restaurant’s success is set to resonate beyond its own walls. “In my opinion many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the broader meaning of this culinary triumph.